Tucked away in the remote, misty mountains of China’s Yunnan province, the Dulong (or Drung) people live in one of the most isolated regions of the country. Among their many traditions, one in particular has captured the fascination of both locals and travelers alike: the ancient practice of facial tattoos on Dulong women.
The Origins of the Tradition
The Dulong are an ethnic minority group that has resided in the deep, lush Dulong Valley, located along the Dulong River, for centuries. Historically, the face-tattooing tradition was reserved for women and has roots going back hundreds of years. The tattoos, typically done when the girls were 12-13 years old, symbolized maturity and were believed to protect them from being kidnapped by rival tribes or sold into slavery.
The practice is thought to have originated as a form of protection against invaders from neighboring groups, such as the Tibetans or the Burmese. When Dulong women had their faces tattooed with elaborate patterns, it supposedly diminished their appeal to potential captors. Over time, the tradition evolved into a symbol of identity and cultural heritage.
The Tattooing Process
The process of tattooing a Dulong woman’s face was often excruciating. Using a sharp tool, the tattoo artist would make small incisions along the forehead, cheeks, nose, and chin. Afterward, a special mixture made from the soot of pine trees was rubbed into the cuts to create the intricate designs. The entire process could take days and required great endurance from the young girls.
The designs varied from village to village, but most tattoos followed a pattern of geometric shapes, lines, and dots that encircled the eyes and ran down the cheeks. The meaning behind these symbols remains largely mysterious, although some believe they represented nature, spirits, or family heritage.
The Last Generation
Today, the practice of facial tattooing is no longer performed among the Dulong people, making the current generation of elderly tattooed women the last to carry this ancient custom. With modernization and the influence of wider Chinese society, many younger Dulong women have chosen not to follow in the footsteps of their ancestors.
The Chinese government has also played a role in the decline of the tradition, as efforts to integrate ethnic minorities into mainstream society have discouraged such practices. This, combined with improvements in the region’s infrastructure, has opened up the once-isolated Dulong Valley to the outside world, further accelerating the decline of traditional customs.
A Living Legacy
Despite the fading of this practice, the tattooed women of the Dulong remain a powerful symbol of their cultural heritage. These women, many now in their 80s and 90s, are living relics of a bygone era, carrying the weight of their people’s history on their faces. For travelers, meeting these women is like stepping back into time, offering a rare glimpse into an ancient culture that is quickly vanishing.
Efforts have been made to preserve the stories and images of these tattooed women. Documentaries, books, and photo exhibitions have shed light on their lives and the broader history of the Dulong people. Though the tradition is fading, the spirit of the Dulong lives on through their stories and the faces of the women who still bear the marks of their unique cultural identity.
Suggested Itinerary to Visit the Dulong Valley
Day 1: Deqin – Bingzhongluo
Morning: Witness the sunrise over Meili Snow Mountain.
Day: Travel through the stunning Nujiang Valley to Bingzhongluo, visiting Qiunatong and Wuli villages, home to different ethnic minorities.
Evening: Rest at a local hotel in Bingzhongluo.
Day 2: Bingzhongluo – Gongshan
Morning: Explore the Bingzhongluo area, visiting the first bend of the Nu River where it makes a dramatic U-turn.
Afternoon: Continue towards Gongshan, stopping at scenic spots along the way.
Day 3: Longyuan Village – Dulong Minority Tattooed Faces
Day: Visit Longyuan Village and meet the Dulong ethnic group, where you can learn about the tattooed women and their ancient customs.
Day 4: Maku Village – Laomudeng
Morning: Explore Maku Village, experiencing traditional Dulong culture.
Afternoon: Drive to Laomudeng, a scenic village with views of the Nujiang River.
Day 5: Laomudeng to Dali
Morning: Explore Laomudeng Village, then visit Liuku and Zhiziluo Village, known for their picturesque locations along the Nujiang River.
Afternoon: Drive to Dali and check into a hotel.