Xizhou Morning Market: A Unique Blend of History, Architecture, and Culinary Culture
Xizhou, a Bai ethnic town with a history spanning over 1,000 years, is one of Dali’s most renowned ancient towns. The town’s vibrant market is centered around Si Fang Street, where the best local delicacies come together to create an unforgettable experience. It is a place where local history, ancient architecture, and rich culinary traditions come together, giving visitors a true taste of the community’s spirit.
The market is not only a food hub but also a perfect place to learn about the diverse ingredients and culinary techniques that shape the region’s cuisine. You’ll find a bustling scene with locals shopping for a wide array of fresh ingredients. Whether it’s fresh produce, aromatic spices, or local specialties, the market showcases the best of Xizhou’s food culture.
At the heart of Xizhou’s food culture is the famous Xizhou Baba (喜洲粑粑), a traditional local snack that has been passed down through generations. The most well-known and authentic version is from Fuxing Po Su Baba, a family-owned shop with a deep culinary heritage. The recipe dates back to the owner’s great-grandmother, and her grandson, Yang Fuxing, innovated by using a unique oven technique—baking the flatbread using the stove’s bottom and lid for a crisp texture that sets it apart.
Originally, Xizhou Baba was a simple treat made with scallions and pepper salt. However, as living conditions improved, locals began adding locally sourced meats and rose sauce, gradually giving birth to a variety of flavorful options. The evolution of Xizhou Baba reflects the dynamic transformation of Dali’s food culture, showcasing the Bai culture’s inherent adaptability and inclusiveness.
To truly experience Xizhou, a visit to the Xizhou Morning Market is a must. Here, you’ll find a sensory overload of steaming breakfasts, fresh produce haphazardly arranged on the ground, and an array of local specialties like the Eryuan fish. Among the highlights are the famous “Water-Flower” fish from Erhai Lake, and the much-loved moldy tofu (毛豆腐), which, as the rumors suggest, grows a thick, white fuzz. The market entrance features a variety of pickled vegetables, fruits, pickled chilies, and pickled ginger—a true testament to the Bai people’s love for sour and spicy flavors.
From the flavors of Xizhou Baba to the bustling morning market, Xizhou offers a deep dive into the food culture and history of the Bai people. It’s a place where every meal tells a story, and every corner of the town reflects centuries of tradition, adaptation, and culinary artistry.
Beyond the food, the market is a gateway into the real life of Xizhou’s residents. It’s where the energy of the town comes alive every day, reflecting the vibrant community spirit and the timeless charm of the Dali countryside.
Image source: Shirly, The Xizhou Court | Xizhou, Ms.Ice
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